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This simple key-in sequence will enable the Standard 528 twin band HT to receive out of band signals up 999MHz.
1) enter UHF side (UHF is main), 2) enter VFO mode, 3) push F + L (function key + light key), 4) then F + 0 (function key + zero key), 5) next F + code (funtion key + code key), 6) then F + L (function key + light key (again)), 7) next F + 3 (function key + three key) 8) then PTT (push to talk button)
Now your in! To change bands you have to press F + 0 followed by F + 3, this is the toggle function. Each time you enter the F + 0 and F + 3 the receiver will jump bands. To get back to 440 (where you started from) keep using the toggle sequence.
If you did something wrong and the HT losses its mind DON'T PANIC! Just push the microproc. reset button. I have done this keyboard entry mod to my HT and it works. The sensitivity isn't great, but you can pick up any-thing that has a strong signal.
This information was obtained from the local Standard representitive in Chicago
I have a Standard C528 (as do quite a few of the other local amateurs here), and I'm very happy with it. In addition to the sequence you gave, there is also a (longer) sequence which enables wide-band transmit (how wide I don't know as I've no need to use it). There are also quite a few additional functions available off the keyboard from those documented. Appended below this is a table (which I keep as an Excel spreadsheet), listing the various functions in rather abbreviated form - I'd be very interested in learning about any others.
Note the extra memory channels - there are actually 20 on each band, the upper 10 are accessed as shown below (accesed with a F+A prefix key, and displayed with a bar over the number). You can't use them in band scanning, but apart from that they function as normal memories.
Other Key Sequences
Wideband RX: Reset, VHF, F+0, F+D, PTT, UHF, F+L, F+0, F+B,F+L, F+3, PTT
Wideband TX: VHF, F+6, PTT, F+8, F+8, F+7, F+7, F+C, rotate down 1, F+0, F+D, PTT, F+8, F+C, F+0, F+4 (F+0, F+3)*4
Set Upper 10 Memory channels: F+D, F+A, num
The 520/28 is very flexible capable of TX RX on 122.825 to 176.800mhz and 328.000 to 473.125MHz.
And RX only on 820.225 to 972.500mhz. The following are not in the owners book.
Abreviations below are F=FUNC L=LIGHT
There are two ways to set Rx wide band if you press reset you will need this
THE RX IS NOW WIDE BAND
FOR TX CONTINUE BELOW
TX WIDE BAND PROCEDURE
TO TOGGLE BETWEEN 3-400 AND 8-960 MHz
DIRECT 4 DIGIT KEY INPUT
10 MHz SHIFT BY UP/DOWN KEYS
40 CHANNALS MEMORY
There are 2 memory channels per memory number on VHF and UHF. They can be used in 2 ways.
+ - will appear indicates that memory channel is in split frequency mode
Once a memory is in split mode it cannot be changed back to a single memory unless its programmed as a extra channel (see below) or reset
F + 9 WILL SWAP RX AND TX
To double the simplex channels available
Program first 10 memories in each band to program additional 10 memories 1
To recall extra memories use rotary control in memory mode or enter memory mode and press
THE M AND BAR APPEARS, PRESSING 0 to 9 will recall ex channels the ex channels can have rep shift and ctcss tones but value will be the same for both channels in one memory
COPYS YOUR SETTINGS TO ANOTHER 520 or 528
TUNE BOTH RADIOS TO SAME FREQUENCY
DTMF SINGLE TONE
MUTING THE AUDIO OUTPUT OF PAGER
TONE SQUELCH SCAN STOP
H.H.TRANSPONDER SUB BAND TO MAIN
TOGGELS BETWEEN 100KHz AND 1MHz STEPS ON ROTARY SELECTOR WHEN FUNC IS PRESSED (FAST TUNING RATE)
SET FREQUENCY LIMIT ON EACH BAND
SET TX HANG DURING TRANAPONDER FUNC
Be very carfull with the h.h.transponder and wide band tx func.
To enable the Standard twin band HT to receive way out of band enter the following key-board sequence.
Upgrade to use rechargable batteries
This has been sent mainly as a guide and that i can not be of any help if you run into trouble, but i bet there are more tec minded people that can help you.
With this simple mod, you can upgrade your Standard C520/528 using rechargeable batteries without having to spend a lot.
You will need to get 6 rechargeables of 600\700 mah, a resister of 33ohm 2 watt and two diodes of 1 amp type 1N4004.
Start by taking off the outside cover. To open the transceiver, you need to remove the small metal plate where you will find the battery pack held in place by 4 little screws, the cross-headed screws mounted laterally on the back. It's all you have to do, the transceiver will open.
Carefully open the two parts holding together from the flat cable upon which half you should find the finger control/keyboard and a long wire approx 7 cms. You can't miss it, it's the only wire there is. Now, from the point where this is soldered onto the lower, bottom part of the transceiver, solder a small piece of wire about 3 or 4cms.
The other end should be soldered to the PCB where there is a large/fat/wide soldered little square (PCB Track?) which also cannot be missed tacking as orientation the connector from the external power supply: The said little square stands on its own and with this the mod on the inside of the apparatus are complete and can now recharge them
Now let us look at the battery pack (Model CBT 151).
Open the two parts and take out only that one where you see the sign + (positive).
Note where the first battery is, its positive poleresting on the little metallic tab( tongue) having the shape and the characteristics of a corner angle slipped off from its housing towards the top. Do not worry, it is only fixed in and divides with cutters in the middle of the corner/angle.
Be careful when separating with the cutters, The two parts may tend to fall apart, thus, if you are not careful you can lose a piece. If this happens, do not worry , but be very careful that this does not happen. Take the smallest piece, namely that which is mounted next to the + symbol and solder on top of the terminals the two diodes in series opposite in between, namely an anode and a cathode. Mind that the pieces of the terminals are chromed metal, ie, on the point when you intend to solder the join, it is necessary you clean in a bit first with a thin sanding paper, solder it and try to slide it away; you can also help by using some soldering flux such as a deoxidising one. Do this soldering, solder the diodes to the very edges of the resister (divide the leads furthest most extreme side k cathode diode-resistance).
Now remount the first piece on the capacitor molded sockets of resistor of 33 ohms and diodes so that they can be fixed in the restricted space at the side of the first battery. Also replace the other piece of the metal tab onto place and solder it on top of the terminal along the resister (on to which is attached :- An anode of the diode.
That is basically it. One last thing, make absolutely sure that there exists no kind of electrical contact from the two metal tabs from your solders.
Mount on the battery carriers the six rechargeable batteries, check again the whole thing and connect on the switch of the external feeder/power supply a voltage of 10 to 12 volts and let the batteries charge up.
The apparatus can then work on batteries and with the power supply. When working with the latter, The batteries will just charge up, In spite of all the modification... Enjoy a good rig.
7 3 4 now, Nick G7COC